Method of making shoes



March 5,1940. w. 'r. B. ROBERTS METHOD OF MAKING S HOES Filed Jan. 15, 1938 s Sheets-Sheet 1 March 5, 1940. w ROBERTS 2,192,274

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jan. 15, less a Sheets-Sheet z March 5, 1940. w, ROBERTS 2,192,274

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES -Filed Jan. 15, 1938 s Sheets-Sheet s db AL WW7 WTAW Patented Mar. 194

UNlTE D STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF SHOES William Thomas Buckingham Roberts, Leicester, England, assignor to United ShoeMachinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. L, a corporation of New Jersey Application January 13, 1938, Serial No. 184,853

In Great Britain-February 1, 1937' 3 Claims. (Cl. lib-145) This invention relates to shoes and to methods ment, the vamp lining and toe box being so of making the same and particularly to shoes proportioned that at the toe of the shoe the vamp in which the upper materials, in whole or in liningwill extend partly over the beveled or re-. part, are cement-lasted to the insole. duced portion of the insole and the box will ex- 5 Objects of the invention are to provideamethtend over the vamp lining and over the re- 5 ow of making shoes whereby wrinkling oi the mainder of the reduced portion of the insole. vamp lining is avoided and the various layers Thus, the vamp lining and box around the toe of upper material at the toe of the shoe may be merely take the place of the portion of the inworked over the insole and properly secured sole removed in reducing it and no objectionable thereto without causing undesirable pleating and pleats or bunches are formed. Thereafter the bunching of the upper materials at the toe, thus remainder of the upper comprising, for example avoiding the trimming and flattening operations the outer layer, a doubler, a quarter lining and which are frequently performed, particularly counter, are assembled in the usual manner over when the uppers of narrow toed shoes are set e insole i c ud t e a y a ed V mp l ncured in lasted position with cement. ing and box, the upper pulled over and the re- With these objects in view, the upper matemaining portions of the lasting allowance worked rials, in the practice of the illustrated method, into lasted pos tio and secured in y 1 5 are worked over an insole upon a last bottom or desi ed an e Preferabiy the as in two steps. First, the vamp lining and toe lowance of the doubler at the toe of the shoe is box are placed upon the forepart of the last and made shorter than the upper or is reduced y 20 their marginal portions worked into lasted poroughing or otherwise so that only a narrow marsition over the insole. Thereafter the remaining gin of it extends over the box between the box portions of a shoe upper comprising usually but and the upper so that the lasting allowance of not necessarily the entire outer layer of the upthe upp which is of 11511941 Width, y b e dper, a quarter lining and a counter are assem y c t the bOX and p lihing- 25 bled' upon the last, pulled over and their mar- These and other objects and features of the ginal portions worked over the insole at the invention will app moreflliiy from he fo heel and shank and over the already lasted vamp lowing detailed description when ead in conlining and box at the forepart of the shoe. Since hection h t e accompanying d w gs and will by this procedure the rear edge of the vamp lining be pointed out in the appended claims. 30

is exposed-inside the shoe, the quarter lining is In t e d a g preferably made to extend around the throat F 1 s a p sp t v w of an insole for of the shoe and, after the last is removed, the s in e u t d me hod; rear edge of the vamp lining is tucked under the Fi s a p sp v showing the v p forward edge of the quarter lining and cemented lining and toe box assembled to er; 35 thereto so that the free rear edge of the vamp 3 is a perspective View Showing the p lining, which is usually of fabric, will be covered lining and toe b X Worked Over an insole po up and will not interfere with the introduction a last; of the foot. Fig. 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 4 In order that the vamp lining and box may f g 40 be worked over the insole smoothly and evenly, Fi 5 is a perspective view of a closed shoe the toe end of the insole, preferably and as illusupp ready o be a e e w the last, intrated herein, is skived, beveled or otherwise resole, p lining and box as shown in Fi 3; duced in thickness and the vamp lining is re- Fig. 6 is a perspective View showing the upper 5 duced in length around the toe end to provide of Fig. 5 assembled upon the last with the shoe is only a narrow lasting allowance. The toe box, parts shown in Fig. 3, and side lasted;

which is of usual size, therefore extends beyond Figis a P sp View Similar to 6 the vamp lining around the toe. The toe box Show ng the t e a d e lasted; may be of well-known material obtainable un- Fig. 8 is a longitudinal median section of the 5g der the trade name Celastic which can be forepart of the shoe shown in Fig. 7; and softened and activated with suitable solvent. Fig. 9 is a longitudinal section oi the toe por- The vamp lining and box are then conformed to tion of the shoe after the sole has been attached the toe portion of the last andtheir marginal and the rear margin of the vamp lining tucked portions worked over the bottom of the insole under the forwardly projecting portion of the 5, and secured in lasted position by means of cequarter lining. s r

' In carrying out the illustrated novel method of making shoes, an insole i is cut to fit the bottom of a last and has its marginal portion on its outer face at the toe end reduced in thick ness, beveled or skived, preferably as shown at I2 in Fig. 1.

A vamp lining l4 and a toe box' i6 are prepared and assembled as shown in Fig. 2. The

' into lasted relation to the insole-they will ad-ftoe box It may be of the well-known material disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,256,240, granted February 12, 1918, on an application of Stanley P. Lovell, and sold under the trade-mark Celastic." This material comprises a fabric base charged with pyroxylin or Celluloid in precipitated condition which can be readily activated by a suitable solvent. The vamp lining l4 may be of usual lining material and of substantially the usual shape, the toe portion,

however, being cut back along the line is so that when the toe box IE and vamp liningi4 are superimposed in their usual relation, as shown in Fig. 2, the marginal portion of the toe box it will be exposed beyond the line I 8 of the vamp lining. The insole I0. is placed upon a last 1 20, and the vamp lining l4 and toe box IS, the latter being first activated by dipping it in a pyroxylin solvent, areplaced upon the last 20, and the marginal portions worked over the insolo as shown in Figs. 3 and .4. The marginal portion of the vamp lining l4 at the toe, being cut back as described, extends only part way over the beveled portion i2 of the insoleifl while the toe box it extends beyond, the vamp-lining and covers the reduced portion i2 of the insole. The lining and box together substantially replace the material removed from theinso leso that the shoe bottom at the-toe end is again level, as shown in Fig. 4. In conforming the vamp lining and toe box to the last, apparatus such as that disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,079,716, granted May 11, 1937,

on an application of Joseph Prosper, may be employed, this apparatus comprising a form fltting the toe portion of the last and a pair of wipers so arranged that after the toe end of the last has been forced against the form to conform the upper materials to the shape of the' last the marginal portions projecting above the last may be wiped into lasted condition against the insole. Before this operation, however, the margin of the insole at the forepart and the vamp lining should be treated with a suitable cement which, if a Celastic" toe box is used, may well be a pyroxylin cement and which, in any event,

should be a cement which will adhere to'the material of the toe box. Thus, when the marginal portions of the vamp and toe box are brought here thereto. It is to be understood that the "Celastic" box toe material whileactivated has cementitious properties and will adhere to the portion of the insole with which it contacts. To prevent sticking of the box toe material to the form during this operation French chalk or a thin layer of paper or cloth may be applied to the mold. After the cement has set and the shoe is in the condition shown in Fig. 3, the overlasted portion of the vamp lining and toe box may be buffed if desired toeven the shoe bot-- tom surface. I In Fig. 5 is shown a closed shoe upper comprising a vamp 22, a quarter 24 (secured together by. a seam 20, Fig. 6), .a quarter lining 2i and adoubler II. the latter being, for example, of loose fabric such as cotton flannel a d hesively secured to the inner surface of the. vamp". The outer-layer, comprising the vamp 22 and quarter 24, are sewed together to the quarter lining 28 at I2 around the top of the upper. The quarter lining extends forwardly 5 beyond the line of stitching at the throat of the upper to form a flap 34. ,The toe portion of the ,3;

ample by a wirelbrush, so that butflittle of its doubler 30 may be cut back or frayed e y,

lasting allowance will remain to. be worked over 10 the shoe bottom.

After placing a counter 36 (Fig. 7) in the upper shown in Fig. 5, the upper is worked over the last 20 upon which the other shoe parts are already lasted, as shown in Fig. 3, and the upper pulled over as usual. The sides of the shoe and the heel-seat can then be lasted in any usual or desired manner, for example with tacks 38 (Fig. 6) staples 40 (Fig. 7) or cement. The toe end portion of the upper 22 is preferably lasted with a machine having end-embracing wipers, for ex-' ample a bed lasting machine." Prior to this operation a suitable adhesive will be applied to the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer layer 22, '24 of the upper and to the overlasted 25 marginalportions of the vamp lining i4 and boxlii,.rubber latex adhesive being suitable for this purpose. It will be understood that in effecting the toe lasting operation at this stage the inward wi'pingof the single outer layer 22, 24

can be carried out much more readily than when a plurality of layers of upper materials have to be lasted in one operation, the operation being directly facilitated by the smooth, even character of the shoe bottom over which the outer layer 22, 24 is to be wiped. After the toe lasting operation the shoe, as shown in Fig. 7;-has the lasting allowance laid over very smoothly and evenly" around the toe of the shoe without objectionable pleats or other upstanding material that would'interfere' with the laying of an outsole the outer layer 22, 24 in thiclmess, may be employed and an outsole 44 laid upon the shoe bot 4 on the shoe. A- suitable filler 42, equivalent to drawn, the flap 34 of the quarter lining is pulled rearward and the free rearward edge of the vamp lining I 4 tucked beneath it, suitable cement being applied so that when the flap 84 of the quarter lining is pushed forwardly over the vamp linat each side of the marginal portion of the vamp lining near the upper edge of the insole more readily to permit the above indicated rearrange ment of the vamp and quarter linings.

Having thus described my invention. what I claim. as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: 1. That, improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an insole,-a 70' separate vamp lining and a toe box upon a last, conforming the vamp lining and toe box to the ing the parts will be permanently held in that position. If necessary, a short slit may be made toe portion of the last and working their marginal portions into lasted position over the insole,

, assembling upon the last a complete" closed upper, -'a quarter lining which extends acrossthe throat of the upper and a counter, working the marginal portion of a quarter and quarter lining into lasted position over the insole and securing them thereto, working the marginal portions of the vamp over the marginal portions of thevamp lining and toe box, securing them in lasted position, and locating the front edge of the quarter lining next to the wearers foot.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling an insole, a vamp lining and a toe box upon a last, conforming the vamp lining and toe box to the toe portion of the last and working their marginal portions into lasted position over the insole, thereafter assembling upon the last a complete closed upper, quarter lining and counter, working the marginal portions or a quarter and quarter lining into lasted position over the insoleand securing them thereto, working the marginal portions of the vamp over the marginal portions of the vamp lining and toe box, and securing them in lasted position, securing a sole to the overlaid marginal portions of the upper, removing 'the last, and tucking the rear edge of the vamp lining under the forward edge of the quarter lining.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which. consists in providin an insole having its marginalportion reduced about the toe. providing a vamp lining having its lasting allowance reduced in width or cut back about the toe portion", arranging a toe box in relation to the vamp lining so that the margin of the toe box extends beyond the edge of the vamp lining in the cut-back portion, arranging the insole, vamp lining and toe box upon a last, conforming the vamp lining and box to the last, wiping themarginal portions of the vamp lining and box over 1 the reduced portion of the insole whereby the marginal portions of the vamp lining and toe box occupy the position of the material removed in reducing the insole and the shoe bottom is sub stantially level, assembling upon the last a com- 1 plete outer layer of upper material, a counter, a quarter lining which extends forwardly beyond the throat of the upper and a vamp doubler, working the marginal portions of the thus-assembled upper materials over the shoe bottom and securing them in lasted position, attaching a sole to the shoe, tucking the rear edge of the I vamp lining under the forward projection of the quarter lining, and cementing the quarter 2- to the vamp lining. 

